For many travelers, the train journey from Kandy to Ella is the highlight of their trip to Sri Lanka. This railway was originally built by the British to transport coffee, and later tea, to the capital Colombo for export to Europe. The route extends much farther than Kandy-Ella, all the way to the town of Badulla from Colombo. However, many consider the Kandy-Ella stretch to be the most scenic. What’s charming about this train journey is that it has remained almost unchanged. The stations and trains exude the atmosphere of colonial Sri Lanka, transporting you back in time.
Perhaps the most enjoyable aspect of the train ride is admiring the stunning scenery through the open windows and doors. For hours, the train winds slowly through the vibrant green tea plantations. During the 7-hour journey, you’ll be treated to the most breathtaking vistas. So, sitting on the train for so long is truly not a hardship!
Prefer a quieter train journey? Take the journey in reverse (from Ella to Kandy)
As mentioned, most tourists travel from Kandy to Ella. However, I traveled in the opposite direction, from Ella to Kandy, and I can highly recommend it! The train journey is renowned as one of the most beautiful in the world and attracts a lot of tourism. This can make it challenging to secure a good spot by the window or in the doorway. If, like me, you’re traveling from Ella to Kandy, this problem is hardly an issue. In my case, the train, especially in the first few hours, was far from full, and I could enjoy the view from both the window and the doorway.
Nuwara Eliya (Little England)
If you want to spend more time among the tea plantations or desire a cooler climate, consider disembarking at Nanu Oya station in the town of Nuwara Eliya, the highest point in Sri Lanka. This town is also known as Little England because it was a favored retreat for the English due to its pleasant climate. You can see this influence in the landscape. Stay in a typical English hotel, stroll through Victoria Park, and enjoy the coolness and beautiful scenery before boarding the train again, heading to Ella.
Ella
Allocate a few days to explore Ella during your Sri Lanka tour, as it’s a cozy (slightly touristy) mountain village. The village has a true backpackers vibe: sipping cocktails in beanbags at Chill Café, for instance. Ella is also a great place to buy souvenirs, with numerous shops to explore. If you haven’t visited tea plantations in Kandy yet, you can do so here, as Ella is surrounded by them. The climate here is pleasant, not as cool as Nuwara Eliya but still enjoyable. And if you can’t bear to part with the train, you can capture it beautifully in photos at the Nine Arch Bridge.
Accommodation in Ella
There are several good accommodations available in Ella, but one absolute recommendation is B&B Daban. For €20, you’ll have a private room with French doors offering views of Ella’s green mountains. And you’ll also be treated to a very extensive breakfast. How delightful is that to wake up to?
Surfing in the South of Sri Lanka
For those who want to surf during their 3-week Sri Lanka tour, the best time to do so is from November to May in the south/southwest of the country. During this period, you’ll find perfect conditions for both beginners and advanced surfers. Not a surfing enthusiast? The beaches here are worth visiting all year round. From vast sandy beaches to small coves.
Most tourists flock to Mirissa, where you’ll find a wide range of restaurants and bars, as well as the opportunity for whale watching. If you prefer to avoid the tourist crowds, opt for one of the many other towns. Distances in the south are manageable and can be covered by tuk-tuk, scooter, or bus. So, you can easily stay in one place and surf or go out in one of the other towns.
Tips for Beach Accommodation in South Sri Lanka
Many travelers only visit one place in the south. Personally, I had enough time during my backpacking trip in Sri Lanka to hop along the coast for a few weeks. This is something I can definitely recommend, even for people with less time. For example, I swam with turtles in Matara and enjoyed the beach in the beautifully situated bay of Hiriketiya at Dots Bay House, where you can also surf and take daily yoga classes.
At The Doctors House, two Australian guys have transformed an old doctor’s house – destroyed during the 2004 tsunami – into a super cool hotel with both private rooms and dorms. They have preserved the old ruins and built a hostel around them with an urban character. They use old materials and washed-up wreckage to create lounge areas that make the large garden colorful. If you go to The Doctors House, don’t forget to try the homemade pizza!
An hour further, in Hiriketiya, you’ll find the cozy Dots Bay House. This accommodation gives you the real beachy feeling with luxurious white beach houses and a half open-air dorm. There are also private rooms with en-suite bathrooms. A perfect place for those who want to enjoy an idyllic beach, yoga, and perhaps a few surf sessions. Oh, and the curries here are fantastic too!
Surfing and Yoga at Camp Poe
Despite being a beginner surfer, I stayed for two weeks in Ahangama. Here you’ll find the stunning Camp Poe. A cozy surf camp with beautiful bungalows and even more atmospheric, luxurious safari tents, set in lush gardens. The pool and the playful monkeys high in the trees make it picture perfect. During your stay, if you wish, you can participate in daily surf and yoga sessions in the morning and afternoon. But you can also just relax by the pool and socialize with your fellow travelers.
Dutch Influences in the Lovely Town of Galle
Two hours by train from Colombo, you’ll find the walled town of Galle. If you have time during your Sri Lanka tour, be sure to include this charming town in your itinerary. First the British, then the Dutch, and later the Portuguese had a significant influence on this fortified town in southwestern Sri Lanka. These influences are clearly visible in the architecture, which, combined with Asian elements, gives the town its own unique character. Galle may be touristy, but it’s also atmospheric. Within the walls of the historic center, you’ll find charming shops, cozy restaurants, and beautiful white houses.
What to Do in Galle?
It’s delightful to wander through the peaceful streets of Galle for a few hours and, at the end of the afternoon, when the sun turns the houses golden, take a walk around the ramparts. If you want to snorkel or surf, you can also do this from Galle. This is handy if, for example, you’re making a short trip to Sri Lanka and don’t have much time. If you’re interested in seeing more of the Dutch influences in Galle, you can visit the Groote Kerk with Dutch gravestones and there are also Dutch houses. There are also Dutch street names like Leyn Baanstraat, Zeeburgstraat, and Leynbaanplein.
Accommodation in Galle
If you have little time, you can choose to visit Galle as a day trip and then travel on to one of the surfing towns in the south. This can be done quickly, easily, and cheaply by taxi, tuk-tuk, or bus. Personally, I found it very enjoyable to stay overnight in Galle. I recommend choosing accommodation within the walls of the town. There are countless charming boutique hotels in the center of Galle where you can stay for 30-50 euros per night. Here are a few tips:
- Fort Dew Guest House
- Arches Fort
- Small House Boutique Guest House
- Villa Yehinsa
If you’re in the mood for luxury accommodation with a pool in Galle, the beautiful Taru Villas Rampart Street might be a good option for you!
Colombo: the end of your 2-3 week Sri Lanka tour
In Colombo, you’ll experience a completely different Sri Lanka: the city is bustling and chaotic. If you have some time left, be sure to visit Pettah Market, Colombo’s vibrant market. You can find literally everything here: from clothes, jewelry, electronics, household items, spices, to fruits. So, you can also stock up on your last souvenirs here.
Another interesting attraction in Colombo is the Lotus Tower. For 20 dollars, you can take the elevator up to the observation deck of the 253-meter-high tower. The ride in the elevator only takes 45 seconds, but then you can enjoy a beautiful view of the city.
Goldfish Lane in Colombo
Do you want to end your Sri Lanka tour in style? Then stay in Colombo at one of the hotels on ‘Goldfish Lane’. This is how the residents of Colombo refer to the row of hotels along the coast. This is because local life takes place along the boulevard, and the locals look at the tall hotels across the street with the tourists as ‘goldfish’. Of course, you only need to cross the road to enjoy a beautiful sunset on the boulevard with the locals. The hotels on this strip are not cheap, but if you’re willing to budget for it, then Galle Face Hotel is a great option!
Tips for beautiful tours of Sri Lanka
Do you want to tour Sri Lanka but not organize everything yourself? It’s also possible to book through a tour operator like Riksja Travel. You can choose a complete tour, or customize your trip (partially) with building blocks. The advantage of this is that you can create a route that suits you perfectly with the help of a travel specialist who knows Sri Lanka well. They also know how to find unique places, and you often stay in small-scale hotels. Here are some Sri Lanka tours from Riksja that we find very beautiful in terms of route:
Summer in Sri Lanka – This 2.5-week Sri Lanka tour is an ideal route if you want to visit the country during the summer vacation. This route takes into account that it’s the rainy season on the southwest coast in the summer. And basically, during this trip, you visit all the highlights of Sri Lanka that we discuss in this blog. If you have more time than 2.5 weeks, you can always combine the route with an extra beach stay or, of course, the Maldives!
Budget-friendly tour – This 2-week Sri Lanka tour proves that traveling with a tour operator can be very economical. You travel by train, taxi, and tuk-tuk from place to place and stay in small-scale accommodations. And breakfast is included in almost all accommodations!
Off the beaten track – This nearly 3-week Sri Lanka tour is suitable for travelers who prefer to see a different part of Sri Lanka than most tourists. Of course, you won’t miss the main highlights, but you’ll also visit places where other tourists don’t go.
